Today we set out to explore the Great Smoky Mountains National Park — the most visited national park in America. The name “Smoky” comes from the natural fog that often drapes the mountain range like a wispy veil. This ethereal mist is created by the vegetation releasing volatile organic compounds (or, as our Climbworks guide Emma so eloquently put it, “tree farts”), combined with water vapour from transpiration. Together, these emissions give the mountains their signature blue haze and smoky appearance.
After picking up our parking pass, we made our way toward Cades Cove, a beautiful, wide-open valley ringed by mountains just south of Townsend, Tennessee. The drive around the cove is a scenic 18 kilometre, one-way loop with plenty of historic stops and wildlife to spot.
Our first stop was at the Primitive Baptist Church, built in 1827 and steeped in the quiet simplicity of early settler life. We continued on to the Cades Cove Methodist Church, constructed in 1902, although Methodists had been active in the area since the 1820s. Their first meeting house dates back to 1840.
Not long after, we had our first bear sighting! It looked fairly small, but a ranger nearby explained that it was likely either a mama bear or a “yearling” — a cub that is between 1 and 2 years old but essentially a teenage bear. He assured us that if it had been a younger cub, the mother would have been much more protective and we wouldn’t have been standing there watching so calmly. Photos were hard to get, as you’re required to keep a respectful distance (for your own safety as well as the bears) and the rangers are very good at enforcing that.
As we carried on, we spotted plenty of turkeys (and not just the ones riding in our car) and a few deer before arriving at the heart of the Cades Cove village. We got out to explore on foot, including a visit to the visitors’ center and several preserved homesteads. Highlights included the John Cable Grist Mill, built in 1868, and the Becky Cable House from 1879. The latter was first used as a general store, but later became home to Rebecca Cable, the daughter of John Cable. According to family lore, Rebecca refused to marry after her father ended one of her early romances — a rather dramatic start to a lifelong spinsterhood.
Around the mill, a cluster of relocated structures adds to the living-history feel: a barn, a chicken coop, a blacksmith shop replica, a molasses still, a sorghum press, and more.
Back in the car, we hit another traffic jam — which can only mean one thing in Cades Cove: wildlife ahead. Sure enough, a bear was spotted lounging in a tree. We snapped a few photos as we drove past, then found a nearby parking spot so we could double back and get a better look from the field. It was a great sighting, and everyone was buzzing with excitement.
As we continued along, we saw more deer, more turkeys, and more stunning mountain scenery. One particularly memorable moment came when a deer darted across the road right in front of us — a not-so-subtle reminder of why you don’t speed in the Smokies.
We made a final stop at The Sinks, a dramatic, swirling waterfall on the Little River. It’s not natural — it was created when loggers dynamited a massive logjam during the area’s timber boom. The result is an impressive and oddly beautiful churning cascade.
From there, we made our way to Gatlinburg and straight to the Pancake Pantry for a late lunch at the kids’ request. It wasn’t quite as good as the Nashville location, but still hit the spot.
We took a stroll through downtown Gatlinburg, weaving through the maze of souvenir shops bursting with tat. One stop was at the “Trump Store,” purely for the novelty of it — and yes, they had every kind of Trump merch you could possibly imagine.
We then boarded the world’s slowest chairlift (or so it felt!) up to Anakeesta—billed as a “mountaintop adventure park,” which might be pushing it a little, but the views were worth it. bills itself as a “mountaintop adventure park.” We climbed to the top of the AnaVista Tower, soaked in the sweeping Smoky Mountain scenery, and figured we’d earned ourselves a drink with a view—but I’d forgotten my ID, and they are very strict in Tennessee about having it, so despite clearly being of legal age, they wouldn’t serve me. That said, there is an exemption if you are clearly over the age of 50, so I’ll take that as a win!
After a quick wander and a peek into the shops, we headed back down and grabbed a quick scoop of ice cream from Ben & Jerry’s and nearly needed a loan to pay for it. Honestly, for the price, I expected mine to come gold-leafed and sung to by Dolly Parton herself. Still, it was tasty, so we clutched our cones and savored every overpriced lick before heading off.
Our final stop for the day was the Smoky Mountain Alpine Coaster — the longest downhill ride in the U.S. with over a mile of winding track. The kids gave it a go, and while some enjoyed it more than others, it was a fun way to wrap up our adventure.
Then it was back to the cabin for dinner, packing, and a well-earned rest — not necessarily in that order.
