Day 4 – Alberobello, Locorotondo and San Vitto dei Normanni

Everyone was awake early so we decided to get going and head into Alberobello before the crowds of tourists arrive. It was a very picturesque drive through the Valle d’Itria and we arrived in Alberobello just after 9am and got a park closest to the Trulli zone.

Alberobello was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996. In the 16th century, the Count of Conversano, Andrea Matteo II Acquaviva d’Aragona started a settlement here and allowed some peasant families to settle to cultivate the land and give him a percentage of the crops. His successor, Count Giangirolamo II, started the urbanisation of the area and allowed the peasants to build houses only with dry walls and without the use of mortar. This was in case there was ever a royal inspection, the structures could easily be taken down, thus avoiding property taxes payable to the King. Having to use only stones, the peasants found the round form with a self-supporting domed roof the easiest configuration. Now most of the trulli are uninhabited but used as tourist shops and accommodation.

We wandered the streets of Alberobello which were very quiet when we arrived. During the course of the time we were there, more tourists arrived so we were lucky to see it with so few people around. We took lots of photos and checked out a few of the stores.

We found a little café and Mark got an espresso (only €1.20) and a limone passticciotto (€2) (a pastry with lemon custard cream and almonds) and the kids a chocolate stuffed donut (€3 each) and all really tasty.

After wandering around a bit longer we wandered back to the car and headed to Locorotondo, a member of the Borghi più belli d’Italia (The most beautiful villages of Italy). We found a park within easy walking distance of the old town and wandered into the Centro Storico and up to the Villa Comunale, a park which overlooks the Valle d’Itria. I love how all the Italian men congregate in these parks and hang out all day chatting to their mates. As we walked in we saw a few cyclists wearing NZ lycra cycling tops and Mark couldn’t help himself but go and have a chat with them. It turned out they were from Christchurch and doing a bit of tour before meeting up with others for the Rugby World Cup in France.

We strolled through the town which was very pretty and went into the Chiesa di San Giorgio Martire which dates back to 1195. It had some ornate altars and a painting with the subject “the Last Supper” by Genaro Maldarelli.

We also saw the Palazzo Morelli and the Chiesa de San Nicola di Myra which had some frescoes depicting the life and miracles of San Nicola.

We headed back to the car and onto San vitto dei Normanni for some lunch, however when we got there the place was completely deserted. We wandered past the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista and ended up back at the car. We went to the local supermarket (food is definitely a lot cheaper here than at home), picked up supplies and headed back to the villa to eat, swim and enjoy the sunshine.

After a swim, the kids all did some schoolwork and I did some washing. Mark and Sophia both had a rest and Greer and I sat on the roof of the villa with our sprite and Aperol Spritz respectively and watched the sun set.


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